DESERT TREK IN THE MOROCCAN SAHARA
Location: M’hamid to the dunes of Erg Chicaga, Moroccan Sahara
Date: January 2010
Duration: 6 days
Publication: A selection of photos published in July Issue, #6, of Trek & Mountain magazine.
A photo essay from my 6 day camel trek in the Sahara. Capturing this harsh environment was a real challenge. The light would change rapidly from bright to dark at sunset (and vice versa) and the midday sun was so strong that photography was limited. I have tried to capture this experience of the desert but there were many scenes I failed to capture, as good an excuse as any to head back soon I’d say.
Hopefully the images below will give a flavour of the trek though and the wonder of this part of the world (24 photos total):
1. Camel Train walking into sandstorm Our first day was something of a baptism of fire as strong headwinds blew the sand into our faces. Nothing for it but to wrap the headscarf over your mouth and nose. The distance was a hazy nothingness – just as one would picture the desert in a sandstorm.
2. Mbarack in the dunes Our guide, 24 year old MBarack, from the town of M’hamid (where we began our trek), leads the way through the dunes on the first day.
3. Camel Portrait Camels are quite grumpy creatures and often didn’t appreciate the camera lens anywhere near their noses. Happily this one didn’t seem to mind.
4. Warming our hands around the campfire The nights were really cold and fires were essential not only for cooking but also to keep warm whilst waiting for dinner.
5. New Year’s Eve desert style We spent New Year’s night in the desert, chatting with the guide and helper in a mixture of English, French and Arabic. The guitar was passed round all – those few chords I can remember from school days not quite cutting the mustard though.
7. Portrait of Mbarack Great guy and so at ease in the desert. We were all friends by the end of the trip.
8. Desert sunrise 1 Sunrise over the dunes was quite amazing. The contrast between the golden sand in sunlight and the coldness of the sand in the shadows was beautiful.
9. Desert sunrise 2 Great whale-backed ridges of sand were all around me. Argh, which to photograph? You have to act quickly as the sun rises suprisingly quickly.
10. The camel is dead The guide said it was old but I can’t remember ever clarifying whether he meant the camel was old when it died or whether it has been on this spot for a long time. Whatever, the smell, though subtle, was just enough to hurry us along.
11. Cloud rays Just an amazing a natural occurrence – they soon dispersed.
12. Erg Chigaga Wow, our first view of the dunes of the Erg Chigaga (goal of our expedition) stretching off into the distance.
13. The dunes They were hard work to climb! And covered in footprints from the crowds who were here on New Year’s eve (it is possible to reach here in a 4×4). Thankfully there were few other people around when we were there.
14. Light on the dunes The place was just stunning and photographic opportunities abounded.
15. Sunset in the desert We witnessed a beautiful sunset from top of the dunes. Then it was a weary descent for dinner.
16. Campfire Here, Mbarack is pouring out the sweetened tea (“whisky de berber”) that is drunk all through the Sahara. Every time we stopped one of the first and most important tasks was to brew and drink this incredibly refreshing tea.
17. Camels at sunset In the early evening, the camels are hobbled (front legs tied together by a short cord to stop them wandering too far) and allowed to graze.
18. Camels at sunset 2 They are fascinating creatures, full of character.
19. Dinner cooking next to the fire Cooking around and on the campfire was a daily experience. We ate tremendously well, testament to the cooking skills of our guide Mbarack.
20. Nothing like a good old camp fire singalong One of the aspects of desert life that is so important to the nomads is entertainment around the fire. Stopping at sunset (6ish) gave us plenty of time to sit round the fire and listen to the desert songs.
21. Camel train returns home We actually returned with a different camel train after our original three wandered away during their morning grazing. Despite us all searching frantically, they weren’t found until many days later!
22. Budding entrepreneur This young desert nomad appeared out of nowhere whilst we were stopped for lunch on the last day. He was quite shy at first but ended up selling Claire a bracelet in exchange for some Dirhams (Moroccan money), some pens and permission for me to take a few photos. As soon as the camera came out, he grew in stature and started playing up, looking inquisitively into the lens as I took the shot.
23. Stretching our legs out The final day’s march was a long one, about 30km in total. Although it was hot, it was a bearable temperature as we often had a breeze. One had to keep sipping water all day though.
24. Final dunes About two hours before we finished the trek we came across these dunes, our final substantial ones. It was great to take them in and reflect on the wonders of the past 6 days.
And if you’ve got this far then you deserve a laugh at my expense in this short video clip.